Koh Samui - Thailand

Thailand is a country of over 65 million people living under a constitutional monarchy. The Thai Baht is the currency. Koh Samui is a small island on the south-western coast of Thailand in the same geographic area as the island of Phuket, a more recognized tourist destination. Ko Samui is inside the Bay of Thailand and Phuket is in the Indian Ocean.

Ko Samui is a recent arrival on the tourism map. The first backpackers only began arriving in the late 70’s by paying locals to paddle them out to the island that was one large coconut plantation. An airport was finally built in 1988 and, sadly, resorts began to replace the coconuts. Today, a large car ferry arrives daily from Don Sak as well as many direct international flights.

There are two major beach resorts in Lamai and Chaweng on the east coast  and it only takes an hour to circumnavigate the island by road. There are some excellent, but scary, four-wheel drive tracks over the mountains that have become thrill-seeker tourist attractions. The four wheel driving further erodes the coconut plantation areas and turns the economy further towards tourism at the cost of it’s historical cropping.

As the coconut and latex plantations are in the mountains, I ventured onto the four wheel drive tracks in my modest fuel efficient, low impact, Suzuki “wanna-be” four wheel drive. As I stopped to photograph the latex sap running from the trees, a fleet of twenty large diesel jeeps roared past me with young tourists hanging off the roof top racks, the rear step treads and anywhere else considered dangerous. A flurry of dust, noise, suntanned sweaty flesh and diesel fumes temporarily consumed my world. The dirt and dust settled over the latex rubber pots slowly collecting latex tree sap. 

  

The commercial source of natural rubber latex is the Para Rubber tree ( Hevea Brasiliensis )
which originally grew in South America especially in Brazil , Charles Marie de La Condamine is credited with introducing samples of the rubber to the Academie Royale des Sciences of France in 1736.

Rubber trees originally were a new world plant originating in Central or South America forests. Like corn, Cassava and spicy capisicum peppers, rubber plants were moved by European colony rulers to South East Asia. Now 90 % of the world's rubber is produced in South east Asia with 80 % grown in Thailand , Indonesia and Malaysia. 

 

In Koh Samui, known best for its coconut plantations, the farmer gets up at midnight to cut the 7 year old rubber trees. The sap runs out of the trees in the cool of night and in the early morning the farmer collects the latex and mixes it with Acetic acid or formic acid to make the fluid thicker. The latex is then rolled to expel the water, then dried by the sun till it turns brown and is ready to sell the merchant or factory.

I reached into my ice box for a local beer and let the convoy get as far in front of me as possible so I could continue to enjoy the natural beauty of Koh Samui.

At the other end of the four-wheel drive track was my next quest. I wanted to see the

famous “Mummified Monk”. Dang Piyasilo, born in 1894, lived as an ordained monk until 1973. He predicted his death and further predicted that his body would not decompose. His body did not decompose but rather dried akin to Egyptian mummification. 

He died in an upright sitting position and gave written instructions that his body be displayed to become an inspiration to future generations to follow Buddhist teachings and be saved from suffering. His wishes were honoured. The sunglasses that Dang is wearing are the original American1950’s Ray-Ban’s he was wearing at the time of his death, priceless.

I found this to be a deeply reflective experience, and also serendipitous as the street stall out the front of the Temple sold the cutest little salt and pepper shakers that will make excellent gifts. I won’t tell you the price in case you are a recipient.  

The day was drawing to a close so I headed back to the ship via the beach for a quick swim. There is no doubt that Thailand and Koh Samui have some beautiful white sand beaches.

Singapore for the tourists and the revheads

The Republic of Singapore sits 1 degree north of the equator with a population exceeding 5 million people living in only 400 square kilometres. 77% are Chinese and only 14% are indigenous Malays.

Singapore got its’ name in the 14^th century when a Srivijayan Prince, who was just passing, got a fright when an animal that looked like a lion ran past him. He seemed to have the delegated authority for naming things so he renamed the island to Singa Pura, the lion city. In 1819, Sir Stamford Raffles, who was just passing, claimed Singa Pura as an outpost of the British East India Company and dutifully bastardised the local name into Singapore. 

The peace loving Malays flourished as a coastal trading post but got a fright in 1943 when the Japanese, who were just passing, decided to stay longer than visitors should so the Malays asked the Japanese and the British to leave. After the guests had left and the dishes were done Singapore became the Federation of Malaysia in 1959. Several sub-committees and working parties later Singapore became an Independent Republic in 1965. 

Singapore today has a world-class approach to its city planning with amazing structures that exude style rivalling Melbourne and Dubai in the final milieu of architectural excellence. The city is as clean as my mothers lounge room, except when the cat vomits, due to strictly enforced rules on building sites, littering and no chewing gum.

Today we visited the Singapore Flyer at Marina Bay that is the world’s largest Observation Wheel over 165 metres high. It is 35 metres larger than the London Eye, which is substantial. Each observation car is a mini restaurant at night. The views back over Singapore are not to be missed.

After the heights of the Flyer we jumped aboard a WW2 Amphibious vehicle (duck), left by the Americans who were just passing, and toured the harbour by water. I must say that Singapore Harbour, albeit small, rivals Sydney Harbour for waterfront entertainment and access by its’ citizens. The waterfront buildings, their design and symbiotic interaction with each other is breathtaking.

Views from both the flyer and the duck allowed us to take in the key features of the Singapore waterfront; Marina Bay Sands - a three-tower hotel with a gravity defying huge ship like structure on top of it (see pic below), the Merlion that is the symbol of Singapore City, a stunning botanical garden under glass that is much larger than the Sydney Botanical garden Pyramid, the Art Science Museum in the shape of a Lotus which must be as architecturally significant as the Bilbao Guggenheim Museum and the Sydney Opera House and the Esplanade Theatre (see pic below) that some say is in the shape of a microphone and others the eyes of a fly……

Of course, shopping was third on the agenda. Singapore is not a cheap duty free port as legend has it. The Aussie dollar gets $SG1.25 at the moment so its not amazingly cheap. Thailand and HongKong are cheaper if shopping is your thing.

Singapore for the rev-heads (car racing enthusiasts)

The International SingTel Formula 1 race is held in September in Singapore City. The whole city is turned into a large racetrack. I had a quick look at my bucket list, added driving a super-car, and hired a Lamborghini Murciélago Roadster to tour the city and check out the race track.

The Roadster is an all wheel drive mid engined super-car. With an exceptionally low-slung body, the highest point of the roof is just 1 metre above the ground. As a part of the deal I was given access to the F1 track for a few laps. Much of the track weaves through the city so this was part race and part city commute. Driving a 580+hp Lamborghini at 20kph is as difficult as driving it at 200kph. 

The Murciélago Roadster is primarily designed to be an open top car, it has a soft roof as cover from adverse weather, but a warning on the windshield advises the driver not to exceed 160 km/h with the top in place. Given the insurance excess and the speeds I was hoping to achieve, I decided to leave the roof off which led to some moderate sunburn but a big, big smile. 

Darwin

For the sake of continuity I include this comment on Darwin. I wrote about it in May 2010 (see my blog archive) and it has not changed!

Having been on the ship for five days, the passengers rushed three main Darwin stores, Coles, Liquorland and Dick Smith. Coles for those little things that had been forgotten like cotton buds and personal hygiene essentials, Liquorland to top up the Listerine bottles with any brown coloured alcohol and Dick Smith for travel adapters and mobile phone chargers.

I did have a personal encounter that did not endear me to Darwin. As I was walking through the mall, two large snakes slithered by between peoples feet and no-one was alarmed or concerned, except me. A local shop keeper, amused at look of horror etched across my face, told me that all the snakes moved early in the morning to their preferred day time sleeping rock and returned to the mall each night to eat the mice and rats !!

I was thereafter alert for any other nomadic snakes, marauding kangaroos or wandering wombats. We live in a dangerous country......  I topped up the Listerine bottle (took an immediate swig or two), bought some more rechargeable batteries and headed back to the safety of the ship.  Bring on Singapore

So what in the hell am I up to?

Sorry for the silence!

There have been several sea days as we travel from Australia to Singapore via Darwin. There hasn't been a lot to share but here is a scene setting monologue.

I set off on this grand pacific cruise, along with 2000 travelling companions, 900 support staff, a few hundred miscellaneous motorised wheelchairs, walking frames, walking sticks, and too many “move out of the way, I’m disabled” attitudes. Constantly, and graciously, stepping aside for the many people claiming old age or disability is never an issue but is seldom returned when I say ”move over, able bodied person coming through!”, colourful language is not exclusively the domain of the young as many might suggest. There seems to be an informal competition on the ship to see how many damn walking frames can fit into a lift at one time. When the lift doors open, visualise flesh toned Meccano (a child’s metalwork construction set) and you have it.  

 Yes, I am suggesting that longer cruises attract an older age group but there are benefits such as accessing the gym, swimming pools, spas and any of the night clubs after 7pm. Be warned though! Do not attempt to reserve a seat at bingo, the “Best Songs of the Fifties” evening live show, the Four Kinsmen playing in the Vista lounge or a table in the card rooms for Euchre, five hundred and Whist. Monopoly and UNO must also be played by the rules.

I am reminded of a wonderful movie “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel for the Elderly and Beautiful” to sum up the eclectic gathering of souls onboard for this cruise, and their reasons for coming. There have already been two deaths, one broken leg and one medical evacuation. The crew advise that it is typical for up to ten people to die on these long sea cruises.    

Nothing above is a criticism of longer cruises but rather an observation of who is attracted to them. Socio-economic factors and retirement play a part. To balance the commentary I add that shorter cruises attract a much younger crowd with an opposingly more energetic set of after 7pm behaviours that many may find more to their taste. By day the view around the pool is certainly less “wrinkled”.

Now back to cruising……

I have spent five days cruising up the Australian coast so there is not a lot to speak therefore I offer a summary of what is to come.

We are going to have a look at a part of the world that is hard to get to for Australians. Moving north up the Asian coast, to Vietnam to explore the North Vietnamese Cu Chi underground tunnels used in the Vietnam War, on to China and the Great Wall (it is currently 45 degrees on the wall!), up to Korea and Russia to explore old abandoned WW2 submarine pens. We then travel east to Japan and across to Alaska to go salmon fishing (and eating) in a glacial lake. 

I do hope to find one that John West rejected. 

We then weave our way down the Canadian and United States west coast. Here I will review Disneyland, Universal Studios, Hollywood, San Diego, Las Vegas and American Diner food. It is then a slow boat home southwest through Hawaii, Polynesia, Samoa, New Zealand and then to the best country in the world, Australia.

'Twas the night before sailing

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'Twas the night before sailing, when all through the house
Every creature was frantic, even the spouse (though that's not unusual).
The bags were packed and placed by the door with care,
In hopes that cruise day would soon be there.

The passengers now nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of foreign countries danc’d in their heads.

When out on the harbour there arose such a clatter,
I sprang from the bed to see what was the matter.
Away to the porthole I flew like a flash,
Tore open the brass cleats and threw up the sash.

The moon on the breast of new-blue waves
Gave the lustre of mid-night to objects in spades.
When, what to my wondering eyes came to cater,
But a stunning white ship, and eight tiny waiters.

With a white bearded captain, so lively and quick,
I feared in a moment it must be Francesco Schettino, what a hick! (insert own word for more emotive rhyming).
More rapid than dingos’ grabbing a baby, the waiters they came,
and he whistled, and shouted, and called them by name!

"Now! Deeksheta, now! Darika, now! Padmaj and Vishitan,
On! Chara, On! Chayla, on Durriya and Biliban;
On to the the ship! came the nautical call!
Now sail away! sail away! sail away all!"

The mini bar is stocked and the ice bucket full, complimentary of course. Reynaldo has taken my dress shoes to be cleaned and my dinner suit to be pressed. The sense of guilt at leaving behind my workmates is passing with every swill.

We are away!

Oops no we’re not, courtesy of Captain Schettino, we must go to the mandatory emergency boat stations drill before the ship sails in case we should run aground off the Opera House and need to abandon ship.We had other ideas......

Names are taken to flush out those passengers hiding in their cabins because the colour of the lifejackets doesn’t match their current ensemble. I must admit that I struggle to wear bright orange, as it never appeared in my personal colour pallete analysis. We presented at muster stations, showed our ID cards, and returned to our suite.

As ship life is all about being social we switched off the lights, removed the ice from our glasses, to minimise noise, and sat quietly musing over what grand adventures are soon to be had. The drill will soon be over and..........................

We will be away!

World Cruise No 2 - Northern Lights

Don't delete this blog just yet!
I am embarking on a maiden world cruise visiting highlights such as  Vietnam, Korea, Russia, Japan, Alaska, the West Coast of the USA, Hawaii and New Zealand.
I leave on the 27th July 2012, so mark your calendars!!!

This will be an amazing cornucopia of colour, vision and anecdote from the furthest reaches of the planet captured in a milieu of martini's and banal monologue.

Thank you for coming with me on my last trip and welcome aboard for the next!!!

I'm Home

The last days of my amazing holiday got very hectic and I was away from wireless connectivity. When I next got near a PC I was in the flight lounge and on my way home. No pics for this blog. I got on the plane, turned left as you do, changed into my provided designer pyjamas and after a champagne nightcap, went to bed.

Thanks for following my journey and for all the email responses. Watch for my next amazing adventure only made possible with the support of friends at home; Herman, Herman, Herman, Jan, Rod, Wendy, Gary, Wieland, Jarrod and many others.................................. thanks

Nathan